The island of La Réunion - travel planning:
To the island of la Réunion in the Indian Ocean in total two weeks had been planned. The island La Réunion belongs to France and can be reached by plane via Paris.
La Réunion is divided into three large basins. The Cirque de Salazie, the Cirque de Cilaos and the Cirque de Mafate. Due to the geographical conditions, it is advisable to choose several locations for the accommodations. This significantly reduces travel times and you can experience more of the island.
La Réunion Island - The accommodations:
The symbol of La Réunion is the Dodo. Although the bird has long been extinct, it is still ubiquitous on the island. Restaurants, drinks and hotels use the dodo as a mascot.
Starting point of my tour around the island was the Hôtel L'Ecrin in Bourg Murat, above the town of La Plaine des Cafres. The second location was the accommodation Gite des Agrumes in Hell Bourg. The third accommodation was the holiday apartment “Apart” in Saint-Gilles-Les-Bains and last but not least the Hotel Le Cilaos in Cilaos.
For help with travel preparation and assistance with bookings or reservations there is a very useful homepage. On this website you will find numerous, recommended accommodations, tips and actual information about the island.
The best time to travel there is from September to November, La Réunion is excellent to extend the Central European summer into autumn.
The island of La Réunion - Getting there:
If you want to visit the island of La Réunion, you can reach the island either with Air France or Air Austral from Paris directly or Air Mauritius via Mauritius.
Because of the cheaper conditions, I flew from Munich to Paris Charles de Gaulle. From there with Air Mauritius and a stopover in Mauritius on to La Réunion. Unfortunately, there are only a few connections, which makes the journey relatively difficult.
It is particularly important to note that, depending on the route, it may be necessary to change the airport from Paris Charles de Gaulle to Paris Orly airport. This is both cumbersome and time-consuming and should be avoided.
For my stay on La Reunion, I also booked a rental car with pick-up and drop-off at the airport.
Arrival on La Réunion Island and driving to Bourg Murat:
After arriving at the airport in Saint-Denis and picking up the rental car, it was a good hour's drive to Bourg Murat. Here was the first accommodation reserved. The Hôtel L’Ecrin has a good location to the nearby volcano Piton de la Fournaise that is the active volcano on the island.
The hotel is located directly on the main road, but the passing traffic does not disturb the peace and quiet.
The hotel's small bungalows are spread out over a large area in a beautifully landscaped, tropical garden which, when the weather is nice, invites you to relax after arriving in the afternoon.
A wide variety of tropical flowers and shrubs can be found in the hotel garden. The hotel also has its own, but relatively simple, restaurant. Those who want it a little better and want to try specialties of the Creole cuisine will find what they are looking for in the village of La Plain des Cafres.
In the evening a fascinating sunset with a great cloud atmosphere could be watched from the hotel garden. An excursion to the Piton de La Fournaise volcano was planned for the next day.
Driving to Saint Pierre:
Unfortunately the morning started with rain and the weather forecast did not promise any improvement. The Piton de la Fournaise had disappeared into the clouds and was nowhere to be seen. A hike would not have been a good idea due to this weather. Perhaps the better alternative to go to the sea in the direction of Saint Pierre.
The wind was also lashing at the sea and it rained almost continuously and sometimes heavily. The beach and the town of Saint Pierre were overcast and it was not much fun to be outside for longer.
I spent the afternoon drinking coffee and preparing for the next few days. In the evening we went back to our accommodation in Bourg Murat. Hopefully the weather will improve overnight and the next day will be nicer ...
Descent to Grand Bassin:
The following morning started out more promising. In the direction of the Piton de la Fournaise volcano, thick clouds were still hanging, so the descent to Grand Bassin has been the better choice that day.
From the parking lot at the Belvédère viewpoint, the sometimes steep descent leads 680 meters down to the village of Grand Bassin. The path runs through tropical vegetation down into the valley.
Again and again you have grandiose views down into the valley basin and towards the waterfalls in the hamlet, near the village of Grand Bassin. The path is partly steep and sandy, sturdy shoes and steady footing are essential here.
The last meters to the house lead over a bridge. From here you have a wonderful view to the water basin, which invites hikers to take a cool refreshment before tackling the ascent.
The village of Grand Bassin itself also offers an opportunity to linger. Here you can have a good snack before going back. Often one is observed by the curious, little birds that like to accompany the hikers.
A heavenly spot - the water basin near Grand Bassin, filled with spring water from the mountains.
Gîte de Bélouve & Forêt de Bélouve:
Actually, the trip to the Piton de la Fournaise was finally planned for this day, but the weather didn't really play along. It is pouring rain and the drive to the volcano makes no sense.
Instead, it went in the direction of the mountain hut Gîte de Bélouve which is also the starting point for hiking into the Forêt de Bélouve, a fairytale rainforest. Here you can stop off, have a snack, drink coffee or just wait for the weather to improve.
Unfortunately, the weather didn't really want to get any better today either. Nevertheless, I started the hike in the afternoon in the Forêt de Bélouve, a wonderful tropical forest. Due to the heavy rain, however, I turned back after a few hundred meters.
Driving to Hell-Bourg & arrival at Gite des Agrumes:
In the late afternoon it was time to leave for the second accommodation in Hell-Bourg. Although the mountain hut Gîte de Bélouve and the Forêt de Bélouve are close to Hell-Bourg, the only way around by car is via Bras-Panon and Saint-André. When we arrived in Hell-Bourg, it was still raining.
The accommodation, Gite des Agrumes, is set in a beautiful tropical garden. The dinner, for which you have to register in advance, is lovingly prepared by the owners and is an absolute recommendation.
From the parking lot at Col des Boeufs over the Plaine des Tamarins to Marla:
The next day it was overcast but it wasn't raining. For today a hike from the Col des Boeufs towards Marla was planned.
The Col des Boeufs is the easiest way for hikers to get to the Mafate basin. The hike is an easy descent through terrain overgrown with bushes and trees. Sometimes there are also pastures to cross.
On the descent to Marla, one occasionally comes across cattle grazing among the barren bushes.
On the way there are wonderful views into the Mafate valley basin and the small settlements. Unfortunately in the early afternoon the weather got worse again and the hike had to be stopped before Marla. Halfway back it started pouring rain and we reached the parking lot completely drenched.
Hike around the Chemin du Grand Sable:
Today was finally a sunny day. Perfect for hiking near the property after breakfast. From Hell-Bourg a round trail goes around the Chemin du Grand Sable.
From a small hiking car park (located after the small village of Ilet à Vidot), the path leads down over a steel bridge into the forest. Again and again you will find colorful flowers that decorate the wayside.
After the hike there was still time to enjoy the tropical flair and relax in the property's garden. The next day it was time to change accommodation and drive to Saint-Gilles-Les-Bains.
Driving from Hell-Bourg to Saint-Gilles-Les-Bains:
The drive from Hell-Bourg to Saint-Gilles-Les-Bains led around the southern part of the island. On the road, along the sea, there are often places worth seeing for a worthwhile stopover.
From time to time there are small bays, some stony, some with beautiful sandy beaches, where the locals fish or enjoy a picnic.
In the southwest of the island, between Piton Sainte-Rose and Saint-Philippe, you cross the lava fields of the Piton de la Fournaise. The photo shows the still hot, active lava flow from the actual eruption.
Also in the south of the island is the cliff formed by lava, the Cap Méchant. Here you can experience the wild La Réunion.
On arrival in Saint-Gilles-Les-Bains, at the end of the day there was a wonderful sunset to watch over the small port.
Trip to the volcano Piton de la Fournaise:
Finally a wonderful day. Perfect for driving to the Piton de La Fournaise volcano and hiking there before the next clouds come up. The Piton de la Fournaise is the active volcano on Reunion Island. From Saint-Gilles-Les-Bains you have to plan about an hour and a half for the drive.
From the parking lot at the Pas des Sables you have an excellent view on the unpaved road that leads to the Pas de Bellecombe, the starting point of the hikes in the vicinity of the volcano. Due to the activity of the Piton de la Fournaise, not all hiking trails are always open. The homepage always provides up-to-date information about the volcano and its current activity.
Due to the actual eruption, an ascent to the main crater at the top of the volcano was not possible. The fresh lava flows had not yet cooled, so that the entire caldera was closed for hikers.
From the Piton de Bert you have the most beautiful view of the volcano. Had the weather been better in the past few days, a fantastic view of the eruption would have been possible from here. In times of volcanic activity, the Piton de la Fournaise is a real crowd puller. Because of its location in the caldera basin, it is safe to watch the eruption of a volcano here.
The regions into which the lava usually flows are not populated on La Réunion. That is why the volcano does not normally pose a major threat to its residents.
Through the rainforest to the Trou de Fer waterfall gorge:
After the excursion on the volcano had already been completed around noon, the Gîte de Bélouve mountain hut offered the opportunity to stop for a break.
In the afternoon, the Forêt de Bélouve could be explored in significantly better weather.
La nacelle is the historic freight elevator that supplies the Gîte de Bélouve with food and supplies. The cable car, with which up to two people can be transported, is still in use today.
Strengthened, it goes to the Forêt de Bélouve. In the rainforest you feel like you are in a fairy tale world.
Various plants in lush green, here and there colorful, tropical flowers bloom. On the way to Trou de Fer you feel like you are in another world and can enjoy the peace and quiet on the way and listen to the sounds of nature.
In the late afternoon in Saint-Gilles-Les-Bains, the excursion ended with a colorful sunset by the sea.
Circular hike at the Cap Noir:
The weather stayed perfect, so the panoramic route aorund the Cap Noir was program for today.
The circular route at the Cap Noir is one of the most popular panoramic hiking trails on the island. From here there are spectacular views into the rugged basin Mafate.
The hiking trail is not too demanding, but the landscape is absolutely impressive. The circular route can be tackled from the parking lot in around two hours.
Visiting Garden of Eden, the botanical garden of La Réunion Island:
Located near Saint-Gilles-Les-Bains, you can find the Garden of Eden. A wonderful, tropical garden where you can marvel at the diversity of flora and fauna on the island. A visit is really recommended.
In addition to snails, some of which choose strange resting places, in the Garden of Eden you will mainly encounter tropical birds. In the most varied of colors, they are relatively easy to spot in the plants in the garden.
You can also marvel at all kinds of unique, lush flowers and blossoms in the Garden of Eden.
More difficult to spot, but no less colorful, are the small, green lizards that hide well in the green of the plants.
Much larger than the lizards, but at least as well hidden are the panther chameleons. As rare loners, they are difficult to find on the island. If you are lucky enough to spot one of these animals, you can photograph them in peace. Because of their leisurely movement, they have been nicknamed “dreamer”.
From the Garden of Eden you can enjoy a coffee or cocktail on Boucan Canot beach. The beach is a great place to watch the hustle and bustle of the bathers on the one hand and the curious birds on the other.
The capital Saint-Denis:
After a few wonderful days the rain returned. For a change we went to the capital Saint-Denis. Here you can stroll even in bad weather and experience the multicultural flair of La Réunion.
The locals sell their goods here at small market stalls along the streets. Fresh fruit, flowers and much more is offered here. The capital Saint-Denis is a good place to fill a less pleasant day with local impressions.
Driving to Cilaos:
Now it is time to leave Saint-Gilles-Les-Bains and head for the last accommodation in Cilaos.
There are several recommended accommodations in Cilaos. Among others, the Hotel Tsilaosa in the picture on the left and the Hotel Le Cilaos in the picture on the right.
Cilaos is a nice little place in the mountains. From here you can take some interesting hikes, including on the Piton de Neige, the highest mountain on the island. Alternatively, you can just stroll in the village and enjoy the air and the panorama.
Circular hike Cascade du Bras Rouge:
The circular hike Cascade du Bras Rouge for me is the most beautiful hike on my two-week trip. The variety of mountains, waterfalls, forest and flowing water makes this path particularly interesting.
The weather was wonderful, not too hot and not too cool, perfect for setting off in the morning. The view of the surrounding mountains became particularly impressive when the last clouds had cleared.
The hike is of medium difficulty. The entire circular route takes just under 5 hours. The path goes up and down and can be relatively slippery and muddy depending on the weather.
The tour leads from one scenic highlight to the other, bizarre rocks and waterfalls make the circular route particularly interesting.
Sometimes you have to cross the streams, sturdy, waterproof shoes are an advantage on this hike.
On the way there are always fascinating, sometimes exposed places for a snack.
A look into the gorge from above before descending and crossing the canyon.
It is always impressive how water paves its way through the landscape and shapes and designs the terrain over the years. On the Cascade du Bras Rouge hike, you can experience and enjoy the diversity of nature on La Réunion up close.
Driving from Cilaos to the airport in Saint-Denis:
The last day on La Reunion has begun, in the late afternoon we went back to Mauritius and from there on to Paris and Munich. In order to make the best possible use of the remaining time, the route to the airport near Saint-Denis led along the sea.
At Saint-Leu it is worth taking a break, because there are unique water spectacles to watch. Caused by the surf of the sea, the Souffleur spits gigantic fountains back into the ocean.
The surf on the cliffs right next door is no less fascinating. The spray sprays meters high when the waves hit the rocks.
Then it was time for the return flight. From Saint-Denis the route led back via Mauritius to Paris and on to Munich.
Conclusion:
The trip to Reunion Island in the Indian Ocean was an impressive experience. Those who like to hike, enjoy nature and hear the sound of the sea are in good hands on the island.
Due to the location in tropical latitudes, however, you have to be prepared for mixed weather with rain showers. Appropriate weatherproof clothing is necessary.
If this does not bother you, you will find dreamlike landscape, untouched, wild nature and an absolutely fascinating world of flora and fauna on La Réunion.
Equally fascinating landscapes and nature can be discovered on the Indonesian islands, Java and Bali.
I could have stayed a little longer on the island, but unfortunately every trip comes to an end at some point.
This report is part of my series Europe travel reports – there you will find an overview of all countries.
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